The Surprising Evolution of Ketchup: From Fish Sauce to Tomato Delight

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Have you ever wondered how ketchup, the quintessential American condiment, evolved from its ancient roots? What if I told you that the tangy tomato sauce we know and love today was once a savory, sweet, and tomato-less brown concoction? Let's embark on a journey through time to uncover the fascinating history of ketchup.

In the mid-18th century, England was痴迷于一种叫做ketchup的酱料. It was a staple ingredient in countless recipes, from stews to vegetables and even desserts. However, this ketchup was nothing like the red goop we're familiar with today. So, where did this early ketchup come from, and how did it transform into the dip we can't live without?

To answer these questions, we must delve into the origins of ketchup's condiment cousin: fish sauce. As early as 300 BCE, Chinese fishermen discovered a way to preserve their abundant catch by salting and storing small fish together. Over time, these fish would ferment, producing a rich, salty liquid known as fish sauce. This savory seasoning was not exclusive to the Chinese; the ancient Greeks and Romans also embraced it, calling it garum.

But with the fall of the Roman Empire, the use of fish sauce declined in Europe. It wasn't until the Dutch East India Company arrived in Southeast Asia in the early 1600s that fish sauce made a comeback. The Dutch and English brought back barrels of this local condiment, which went by various names like "ke-tsiap" and "koe-cheup." Upon reaching British ports, it was Anglicized to ketchup, marking the beginning of Europe's second wave of fish sauce dominance.

When European ships were expelled from Asian trade hubs in the mid-1700s, the public refused to let ketchup fade away. British cookbooks started featuring recipes for makeshift ketchups, incorporating ingredients like oysters, anchovies, mushrooms, and walnuts. Ketchup became a catch-all term for any brown sauce, leading to the creation of iconic condiments like Worcestershire, A1, and HP sauce.

The tide turned when an American chef introduced a new twist to ketchup. In 1812, Philadelphian physician and food enthusiast James Mease unveiled the first tomato-based ketchup—a thin, watery mixture of tomato pulp, spices, raw shallots, and brandy. While drastically different from fish sauce, tomatoes contain high levels of glutamate, which provides that rich umami flavor.

As the 19th century progressed, tomato ketchup gained popularity, especially with the rise of bottled foods. By the 1870s, most tomato ketchups had replaced shallots and brandy with sugar, salt, and sodium benzoate. However, the most significant change was yet to come.

Enter Henry J. Heinz, who revolutionized the ketchup industry. After initially selling pickled vegetables, Heinz began offering a variety of ketchups. In the early 20th century, his commitment to healthier, natural ingredients led him to replace sodium benzoate with riper tomatoes and a generous amount of vinegar. The result was a thick, goopy formula that became an instant hit—despite its difficulty in being dispensed from the bottle.

Today, ketchup is a staple in 90% of American households and has even served as the base for numerous other sauces and dressings. Its evolution from fish sauce to tomato-based condiment is a testament to the adaptability and ingenuity of culinary traditions.

So, the next time you dollop ketchup on your fries, remember the ancient roots of this beloved sauce. From fishy beginnings to a global phenomenon, ketchup's journey is a fascinating tale of culinary transformation.

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