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The song of Fuz resonates through the streets, a poignant reminder that the heart of Lebanon beats amidst conflict. In the war-torn south, just kilometers from the Israeli border, Suk Khan stands as a testament to resilience. This market, one of the oldest in the Middle East, dates back to the 14th century. Once a bustling crossroad connecting Jordan, Palestine, Egypt, and Syria, it now faces a different reality.
Why does Suk Khan continue to thrive in the shadow of war? What is the secret of its enduring spirit?
As the sun sets, the market's vibrancy contrasts sharply with the serenity that seems to hang over the area. In times past, crowds would fill the alleys, and the market would stay open until nightfall. But now, the atmosphere is different. The district of Hasbaya, home to Lebanon's minorities, maintains an uneasy truce. Hezbollah, the mainly Shia armed group, refrains from attacking Israeli positions, while Israel targets Hezbollah assets with precision strikes.
But what does this truce mean for the people of Hasbaya? How does it shape their daily lives?
Despite the relative calm, the sounds of war are never far away. Israeli war planes, air and artillery strikes, and Hezbollah rocket launches have become a part of daily life. The serenity is deceptive, a thin veil over the underlying tension. Two weeks ago, the market was filled with people shopping when the exchange of fire began. The instability has affected livelihoods, and the once vibrant market now struggles.
Ali Ferris, a displaced shopkeeper, embodies the resilience of the people here. At just 5 years old, he began accompanying his father to sell produce in Suk Khan. Now, he closes shop early due to a lack of customers. "My home has been destroyed. I left my village, we lost everything. We hope this war ends soon because it's been going on for too long," he says, his voice tinged with a mix of hope and despair.
What drives people like Ali to keep going, despite the hardships they face?
The conflict in Southern Lebanon is intrinsically linked to the broader regional tensions, including Israel's war on Gaza. The future remains uncertain, and the optimism is scarce. Yet, the people of Suk Khan remain steadfast. They carry on, preserving their traditions and their way of life, even as the war rages around them.
As we explore the ancient market, we are reminded of its historical significance and the resilience of its people. Suk Khan stands not just as a market, but as a symbol of hope and perseverance.
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